city guide

French Riviera Summer

a week-long guide to our favorite euro-summer destination

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It's impossible to visit the Côte d'Azur and not fall completely in love with it. A coastline dotted with chic beach clubs, colorful facades on cobblestone streets, meals served over jaw-dropping views of the Mediterranean - it's the beauty that inspired countless artists (Cezanne, Monet, Matisse, and Renoir- to name a few), to try and capture its magic and light. With so many charming towns and stunning cliffsides in close proximity, the French Riviera is best experienced as multi-stop trip: from Nice and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to Antibes and Saint Tropez, you could visit many times and still never uncover all of the beautiful hidden gems. Our guide on where to go, stay, eat, and lounge by the ocean when visiting our top euro-summer destination!

NICE:

Nice is the largest city in the French Riviera with the most accessible airport, which makes it the ideal spot to begin your trip and pick up your rental car. Nice was the first city I ever visited in France and it will always hold a special place in my heart! The beachside promenade is basked in gorgeous sunlight most days of the year, the old town is vibrant with its colorful Italianate buildings, (Nice has a strong Italian cultural influence, particularly in its architecture and cuisine- being so close to Italy after all), and there are so many yummy, fresh local Niçois dishes that are a must try.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hôtel La Pérouse: It doesn't get more iconic Nice than this. The historic hotel originally opened in 1936, carved into the limestone face at Parc du Château and overlooking the Mediterranean on Promenade des Anglais. Artfully refreshed by design firm Atelier Friedmann & Versace, the interiors of the 50-room hotel are both playful and nostalgic, brimming with vintage treasures and stripes galore. You wake to sweeping views of the ocean, you spend the afternoon at the cliffside pool surrounded by the citrus tree garden. You are in French Riviera Heaven.

Hôtel La Pérouse

Hôtel du Couvent: A departure from the typical glitz of the Cote d'Azur, this hotel is all understated elegance and authenticity. An old convent reimagined into a restorative property focused on mindfulness. The flower filled gardens and roman baths will make you feel like you're in a different era, an immersive experience that is fully realized when you walk out into the historic heart of Old Town Nice. The interiors are warm and cozy, washed in a buttery sunshine yellow, the two restaurants onsite are helmed by chef Thomas Vitele, with a menu that changes daily based on the areas fresh fish and local produce.

Hôtel du Couvent

Chateau Le Cangard: A Provençal fever dream in the middle of the Riviera. The full name of the Côte d'Azur region is actually Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, and it stretches all the way to Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. Many of these beautiful Provençal towns are further away from Nice (and worthy of a dedicated trip all their own), but the little hilltop town of Haut de Cagnes is only 20 minutes away and it's straight out of a fairytale - a 14th century medieval village, to be exact. Ivy and bougainvillea sprawl over the stone facade, shutters swing open onto private balconies overlooking the village and ocean in the distance. The interiors are beautifully appointed while being historically preserved, and the michelin restaurant on the romantic terrace is a top-notch experience worthy of a visit even if you are not a guest at this hotel. This is where we stayed on our most recent trip and I couldn't recommend it enough!

(Note - this is a medieval village so keep in mind the streets are a bit steep and narrow. You park/get dropped off at the parking lot in the village and the staff from the hotel send a car to come pick you up and escort you to the chateau. The hotel service was absolutely perfect.)

Chateau le Cagnard

WHERE TO EAT:

  • le plongeoir: dining on a pillar of rock over the côte d'azur.. need I say more? This culturally significant emblem of the city of nice orginates from the nineteenth century, when a stylish fishing boat was secured on the rock before it was reenvisioned into the restaurant it is today. I've visted this spot twice, the food (ceviche with kumquat, rigatoni with summer truffle) is great, the views and atmosphere are even better.
  • les bains du castel: more incredible seafood on the water in a prime location. There is also a beach club here so you can make a whole afternoon out of it
  • rouge: wine bar with amazing small plates by the marina
  • jan: a michelin star restaurant serving innovative south african cuisine, regarded as one of the best restaurants in the entire french riviera!!
  • le panier: a gem in old town nice, highlighting fresh local ingredients
  • chez acchiardo: a local legend. this family restaurant in old town has been passed down from generation to generation, is the go-to spot for the Niçoise. come for lunch for Niçoise salad and carpaccio
  • château le cagnard: for the most special of occasions. located about 30 minutes from nice within the eponymous hotel, this michelin restaurant was one of the top culinary experiences of my life. sit on the romantic terrace, with a view that stretches as far as cap d'antibes, and enjoy a flawless contemporary and seasonal provençal meal.

WHAT TO DO:

  • Beachside walks on The Promenade des Anglais
  • Beach club days: Castel Plage, La Plage du Negresco, Paloma Beach (in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat)
  • Explore Old Town Nice: Cours Saleya Market (daily street market), and Place Rossetti (the central square)
  • Scenic hikes: Jardin botanique de Nice (Mediterranean botanical garden) and Colline du Château, Castle hill park (there's a waterfall!)

DAY ONE: ARRIVE IN NICE

  • arrive and pick up your rental car
  • get settled & take a stroll around the quaint town. Haut de Cagnes is a historic hilltop medieval village at the top of Cagnes-Sur-Mer known for preserving its authentic Provençal charm- the village dates back to the 14th century. Taking a walk through the town overlooking the hilltops and views out to the ocean is the perfect start to your trip.
  • back to the hotel for dinner at their restaurant on the terrace at sunset, c'est magnifique.

DAY TWO: NICE

  • head to town for the Cours Saleya Market and order the tartes aux citron at the Mitron Bakery stand and marvel at the local flower market. Stand in line like a local for socca, the quintissential late-morning Niçois snack – a big paper-thin pancake, or you can't go wrong with a crêpe
  • stroll along "La Prom", The Promenade des Anglais - the iconic beachside walk to see the historic hotels and glistening water
  • lunch like a local at chez acchiardo, spend the afternoon exploring old town
  • stop for a glass of wine at rouge before dinner, walk along the marina
  • dinner at le plongeoir, the most iconic dining experience in Nice!

DAY THREE : BEACH CLUB AT SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the most perfect lush peninsula, with pristine beaches and some of the most expensive real estate in the world. Frequented by royals and celebrities throughout history, this is a pricey little slice of paradise to vacation in but is an amazing day trip from Nice (only 20 minutes away!) If you booked a rental car for the whole trip, you can take a scenic drive through Nice and Villefranche Sur Mer to get to Saint-Jean, or if you'd rather not take a car you can take public transit (40 minute journey)

  • enjoy the breakfast spread at your hotel before heading to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
  • Spend the day at Paloma Beach - my favorite beach club in the area! This cove is a hidden gem, so luxurious and secluded since the beach club is the only establishment under the cypress trees and pastel homes on the cliff. Have your lunch out on your lounger with a spritz, you'll want to stay here all day (or forever)
  • Dinner at Le Quai 28 in Saint-Jean, or stop in Villefranche Sur Mer on your way back, a colorful town between Nice and Saint-Jean known as the "Jewel of the French Rivieria", and have dinner at Le Belle Etoile al fresco.

paloma beach & saint-jean-cap-ferrat

DAY FOUR: ART-FILLED DAY TRIP TO SAINT PAUL DE VENCE

  • breakfast at the hotel or in town before checking out of your hotel
  • Visit Musée Renoir in Cagnes Sur Mer before leaving the area: the museum is located at the Renoir's home where he spent the latter half of his life
  • Drive 15 minutes to Saint-Paul de Vence, a beautiful medieval village known for all of its artistic residents and galleries. The little cobblestone village is one of the most romantic and picturesque places you'll ever visit, I never wanted to leave! Have lunch on the terrace at La Colombe D'Or with a glass of wine, then wander the streets, going in and out of local shops + galleries. Don't miss La Miette, a charming 12th-century cottage famous for the French poet Jacques Prévert who resided there in the 40s.
  • 30 minute drive to Antibes, check into your hotel (optional to drive straight to Saint Tropez if you'd like a more relaxed trip with less stops, it's just under 2 hours from Nice and Saint Paul De Vence, but if you want to fit one more destination in, it should be Antibes!) Stay at Cap D'Antibes Beach Hotel or The 1932 Hotel & Spa Cap D'Antibes for a night

Saint-Paul de Vence

DAY FIVE: ANTIBES + ARRIVE IN SAINT TROPEZ

  • Get a croissant or pastry and a slice of lemon pie for later at Boulangerie Veziano, the best little boulangerie in Antibes!!
  • Walk around town and visit the Musée Picasso, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame D'Antibes (the site dates back to a 5th century Roman cathedral), and the Marché provençal, a covered street market great for shopping for local treasures to bring back home
  • Lunch at Baba, the beachside restaurant and bar at the Cap D'Antibes Beach Hotel serving Levantine cuisine. The 5-star 35 room hotel and restaurant is Palm Springs meets the Riviera, a retro-california cool vibe inspired by the geometric, streamlined houses of Palm Springs and Meditteranean seaside villas. The circular bar offers a panoramic view of the Cap D'Antibes.

Boulangerie Veziano and Cap D'Antibes Hotel

SAINT TROPEZ:

Saint Tropez, the chicest slice of the Riviera. Parts of the town retain the charm of its origins as a fishing village, while stretches of beach resorts and a marina full of yatchs emphasize the transformation into a glamorous destination in the 1950s, ala Brigitte Bardot. This is the second town to base yourself in to enjoy all it has to offer, from luxury hotels and shopping, the infamous beach clubs of pampelonne beach, and days spent wine tasting on the vineyards, Saint Tropez is a must visit!!

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Lou Pinet: a boutique hotel by Charles Zana whose typical Provencal shutter-lined exterior houses an interior that recalls the '60s and '70s, with a palette echoing the natural colors of the surroundings: wicker, terracotta, and olive trees. It's only 4 minutes from the heart of the Saint Tropez scene and a 10 minute drive from the iconic Pampelonne Beach, but you'll be hard pressed to leave one of the most enviable properties in the Riviera.

Hotel Lou Pinet

Lily of the Valley: for a break from the parties (but not from the luxury), this wellness-focused retreat may have the most spectacular pool in Saint Tropez. This hotel is a splurge but would be amazing for a honeymoon or special celebration. That along with Philippe Starck's ephereal interiors (think walnut ceilings and dramatic marble bathrooms) and a top notch spa make this hotel a destination in and of itself. The hotel is perched high above the secluded beach below, at a distance from Saint Tropez but within a (25 minutes) arms reach.

Lily of the Valley

Hôtel L'Escalet: located in between the other hotels near the secluded Escalet beach, the charming town of Ramatuelle, and Pampelonne, this laid back and slightly more affordable (by Saint Tropez standards) boutique hotel doesn't compromise on style and authenticity. The rooms are beachy boho chic and the property was made for lounging. If its a beachy vacation you're after (Saint Tropez has more to offer than shopping and clubs!) this is the place to be.

WHERE TO EAT:

  • restaurant-bar at hotel la ponche - saint tropez: a secluded seaside restaurant on the gulf of saint tropez, just a short walk from the lively vieux port (old port). set inside the historic hotel reimagined by designer Fabrizio Casiraghi, the menu from the michelin-star chef from Paris focuses on fresh fish du jour and market produce.
  • dior des lices - saint tropez: perfect stop for coffee, pastries, or cocktails on the terrace and perousing the attached Dior store
  • la réserve à la plage - pampelonne beach: the pampelonne beach version of the two-michelin star réserve ramatuelle is a sexy st tropez beach club, smartly designed by philippe starck to return to the original saint tropez spirit and surroundings. the wooden barstools are hand-chiseled, the seafood is incredibly fresh, and the daybeds are quite possibly the most perfect spot in all of st tropez to sip a pornstar martini beachside.
  • kinugawa - ramatuelle: tokyo meets the meditteranean at this buzzy indoor/outdoor Japanese restaurant set within an olive grove. live DJs begin their set as you arrive for dinner and continue into your night of dancing.
  • cafe de l'ormeau - ramatuelle: a favorite brasserie for locals, this family run spot focuses on Provençal gastronomy, best served on the terrace of their picturesque village sqaure.

WHAT TO DO:

  • La Plage. Saint Tropez is famous for its beach clubs. spend the day at la réserve à la plage (see above), indie beach, loulou à ramatuelle, or the glamorous Club 55, a Saint Tropez institution, celebrity-packed since the 50s.
  • Shop: Rue François Sibilli for luxury brands and window shopping, La Ponche (the old quarter) for boutiques, and the beach clubs for chic resortwear, gorgeous swimsuits, and branded beach essentials (JACQUEMUS at Indie Beach is a must see)
  • Visit local wineries for tours and tastings. Saint Tropez is famous for its high-quality rosés, perfect for summer. You can visit château minuty and château barbeyrolles for a gorgeous day in the vineyards.

DAY SIX - SAINT TROPEZ:

  • spend the day at la réserve à la plage on Pampelonne beach. Rent lounge chairs and enjoy the white sand beach (not very common in France!) that continues into the restaurant under the natural wood trellis above. this is arguably the chicest beach club in Saint Tropez right now. five star experience!
  • late afternoon reset at your hotel - get dressy for a proper Saint Tropez night out
  • Dinner and dancing at kinugawa (DJ set until 1am)
  • If you want to experience the full Saint Tropez club scene, you go to les caves du roy inside the Byblos Hotel to dance until the early hours of the morning.

DAY SEVEN - AU REVOIR SAINT TROPEZ:

  • Breakfast at your hotel, morning at the pool before check out
  • Stop at the beautiful ivy-covered Dior Cafe for coffee or a spritz & lite bites
  • Stroll around the shops and pick up a custom fragrance or candle at Maison ST to soothe your upcoming post-vacay blues and future nostalgia for this magical place
  • Drive back to Nice to catch your flight. Au Revoir, à bientôt Côte d'Azur!

If you're planning a trip to the French Riviera and want more recommendations or assistance travel planning, please reach out! We'd love to plan your next sojourn.

xx, Jess